Yesterday I went to get a haircut with Yelim - one of the graduate students at the University, who is turning out to be a good friend. At the risk of sounding cheap (I don't have a job yet and I had no idea what the quality of the place would be) Before we went I told Yelim that I didn't want to spend too much. She told me it would cost somewhere between 10,000 and 20,000 won, which roughly translates into somewhere between $8 and $18. Hmmm. I automatically go into my if-its-that-cheap-can-it-be-any-good mode that M hates so much. But I agree and our appointments are made.
We met at 12:30 and walked over to the trendy Eday neighborhood (surrounding Ehwa Women's University) and went into a modern soho-style hair salon. Everything is in earthy monochrome colors and the space is spread out and immaculate. Our coats and bags are immediatley taken away and plush robes are put onto us. Someone literally put the robe on and tied it for me. She took great care not to get my hair caught in the robe and to make sure it was placed on my shoulders just right. We're escorted to the tea lounge where we chose Iced green tea from a list of beverages and snacks. I went to get my hair washed and got a great scalp massage. At this point I thought Yelim had mistakenly left a zero off of her price estimation, but it felt great, I was enjoying the experience, and there was not turning back now so why not just enjoy it.
After my hair was cleaned it was combed so delicately and slowly that it felt like another massage. When I was brought to my stylist I mimed what I wanted - Yu Na, the South Korean figure skater was on in the back room so Yelim and most of the other staff dissappeard and I was on my own. The stylist took great care and he cut my hair very thoughtfully. After the back room errupted in applause and everyone returned, the stylist refused to let anyone near him while he was cutting. I appreciated that since when I go to any salon in NY I feel like the banter between stylists often distracts them from the most important thing - my hair. In the end he gave me a great trim and the side swept bangs that I see everywhere on the streets of Seoul. I was completely satisfied.
When I went to pay it did cost more than we had expected. It was 22,000 won - $19.13! Unbelievable. They also gave me a membership card that gives me 10% off my next visit!
I don't if I mentioned this before but there is no tipping in Korea - at all - ever. So it really only cost $19.13. I did't have to tip the woman who washed my hair, they man who cut it, the woman who served me the tea or the two women who dried my hair. I almost felt bad for not tipping but it's just not done in Korea. Not in restuarants, taxis, and not in hair salons.
I couldn't take pictures because they took my bag away and I was so swept up in the experience that I forgot to go back for my camera.
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